Jan 042012

Mom, dad, I’m very sorry, but I won’t be going on our yearly snowboarding / skiing trips anymore. I’ve found another board which goes very fast and which I fall down from a lot!

Yesterday was another day near the sea. I met Viviana at the Liman Free Hugs and we got along nicely. She had some time to spare, so she wanted to show me around “La Punta”, near the Liman port and the place where most of Lima’s Italians live. Of course I said yes to this! Interesting conversations, leaky ice-creams, very nice views and excellent food were the result!
Lima is stretched along a very large part of the Atlantic ocean, allowing for quite some nice pieces of beach, and some very good beginners surf. After hearing some really good stories about “ridin’ the waves” from my friend Roel (read about his adventures here) this was something that has been high on my list of things to go and try!

Mila and I decided to take a walk (we were going to go for a run, but it gets so incredibly hot here!), and after a nice stroll over the Liman cliffs (at Barranco and Miraflores, the districts I spend most of my time, Lima is about 50 meters above sea level. There are some very steep cliffs plunging down to the sea and the different beaches) we descended to sea-level to get our feet wet. There was however also the possibility to rent surfing gear and to get lessons.

Of course I lost a contact whilst surfing. I’ve been losing contacts throughout my entire journey so far, be it just by them falling off of my finger and losing them whilst putting them in, or having them blown out of my eye on the Pisco beach (strange experience!) For some reason however, the four contacts that I lost have always been from my left eye! I guess my right eye is more sticky?!?
El Gordo (“fatty” would probably be the best translation. He lives up to his name) is about as Liman as they get. Rapid Spanish, quite macho, but very friendly, he showed me the way of the waves. First safely on dry land, then when I had stood up (quickly!) about 20 times on a bench, he took me out onto the ocean.

“Relajate” (relax), he would tell me. Hard to do when a huge wave (ok, 1 meter high, but that’s still impressive if you’re lying down on an unstable board and it’s trying to drown you) comes crashing down. Push up, stand up, bend knees, fall off (or, push up, stand up, fall of, or even push up, fall off), is what I did for at least twenty times. Still I was able to get a few meters a few times (one time making it all the way to the beach itself! Cowabunga dudes!)) And, the rush of actually riding a wave, conquering the majestic ocean (if only for a second or two…) is indescribable!

I mush have swallowed at least 2 liters of sea water (luckily there was beer afterwards to quench my thirst), got my legs entangled in the rope to the board at least ten times, nearly drowned twice and almost hit another surfer once. Still, I loved every minute of it! Totally radical dudes!

  8 Responses to “Surf’s up!”

  1. I so know what you mean, surfing is awesome! My surfing pictures from costa rica have me riding te waves… get someone to take your picture in only those two seconds that you’re actually up. No one will know it was only 2 seconds πŸ™‚ and the picture will last a lifetime … (and so will the stories) Good luck and have fun!!!

    • Now you ruined it!!! I could have told people that I was a natural, and here you go telling the secret! πŸ˜‰

  2. Je lijkt een natuurtalent te zijn.. na 1 ochtend ploeteren was het mij eigenlijk nog niet fatsoenlijk gelukt om te staan.. :).. dus: chapeau!

    • Zie de reactie van Leoni: 1 seconde staan en je hebt een mooie foto πŸ˜‰
      Maar ga zeker nog wat meer moeten oefenen voor het echt een beetje lukt…

  3. Wat een lekker gevoel he? ik heb in 2010 een clinic gevolgd. tis inderdaad onbeschrijfelijk, dat surfen. Ik hoopte afgelopen zomer weer mee te doen met die clinic, maar helaas stak een kind een spaak in het wiel. Ach, volgend jaar weer. Hier in NL heb ik ook nog een indoor-surf gedaan, net zo heftig, maar minder onbeschrijfelijk. (bovendien doet vallen dan weer ECHT zeer…) Geniet ervan!!!

    • Ik ga er denk ik hier nog maar een poos van genieten. Genoeg mooie stranden om het redelijk te moeten kunnen aan het eind van deze trip…

      En graag fotoΒ΄s van hoe je met een kind op je rug op een surfplank staat! πŸ™‚

  4. Oh, wacht maar tot je terug bent in Nederland en de temperatuur van het Noordzeewater hebt gevoeld, ik zou nog even wachten om het snowboard weg te gooien. Kom je tijdens het surfen ook berghutten tegen voor een chocolademelk met rum?
    Wij gaan in ieder geval eind januari, begin maart op de latten. Op naar de …………. chocolademelk met rum.
    Veel plezier op het water en zie dat je het onder de knie krijgt.
    Groetjes Pa.

    • Ok, misschien dat ik toch nog wel af en toe een keertje mee wil… πŸ˜‰
      Heel veel plezier op de latten!

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