Mom, dad, I’m very sorry, but I won’t be going on our yearly snowboarding / skiing trips anymore. I’ve found another board which goes very fast and which I fall down from a lot!
Mila and I decided to take a walk (we were going to go for a run, but it gets so incredibly hot here!), and after a nice stroll over the Liman cliffs (at Barranco and Miraflores, the districts I spend most of my time, Lima is about 50 meters above sea level. There are some very steep cliffs plunging down to the sea and the different beaches) we descended to sea-level to get our feet wet. There was however also the possibility to rent surfing gear and to get lessons.
“Relajate” (relax), he would tell me. Hard to do when a huge wave (ok, 1 meter high, but that’s still impressive if you’re lying down on an unstable board and it’s trying to drown you) comes crashing down. Push up, stand up, bend knees, fall off (or, push up, stand up, fall of, or even push up, fall off), is what I did for at least twenty times. Still I was able to get a few meters a few times (one time making it all the way to the beach itself! Cowabunga dudes!)) And, the rush of actually riding a wave, conquering the majestic ocean (if only for a second or two…) is indescribable!
I mush have swallowed at least 2 liters of sea water (luckily there was beer afterwards to quench my thirst), got my legs entangled in the rope to the board at least ten times, nearly drowned twice and almost hit another surfer once. Still, I loved every minute of it! Totally radical dudes!